Edi Kante Pinot Nero "Selezione" 2019

Let’s embrace the elephant in the room—that it wouldn’t be unusual for someone to pass over this bottle in favor of Burgundy. It would, however, be an oversight and here’s why: Edi Kante is a brilliant pioneer of sustainable wines whose holdings in Carco boast some of the most impressive limestone soils and seaside microclimates in our portfolio. Part of Kante’s selezione wines, this release of Pinot Nero is only produced in exceptional years and aged in French oak barrels. Considering the variety and treatment, it is not without parallels to Burgundian counterparts, yet is decidedly unique. Here, heady aromatics of pomegranate and hibiscus meet a soft rush of tannins and vibrant saline finish. Though young Pinot Neros can exhibit austerity, Kante has cellar-aged this bottle before release. It is superb beside smokey meats and sharp cheeses or comforting Madeira-glazed mushrooms with roasted chicken. Truly a bottle not to be missed.

—Allyson Noman